What are good active ingredients for acne-prone skin?Updated a year ago
The perfect skincare routine for acne-prone skin should always include some active ingredients, which can show up in cleansers, serums, spot treatments, or moisturizers.
The majority of active ingredients fight breakouts by encouraging healthier shedding of dead skin cells, mitigating irritation and swelling, and inhibiting the acne bacteria:
Retinoids
Retinoids (molecules related to vitamin A) are major staples in acne care. There are many different types of retinoids that work by triggering receptors in the skin to improve the differentiation, growth, and shedding of skin cells. This triple-action is incredibly useful for unclogging pores, fading blemishes, and even helping to fade or prevent post-acne marks.
Retinoids are also popular in anti-aging skincare since they enhance collagen production to visibly reduce wrinkles. They come in cosmetic forms like retinol and retinaldehyde, over-the-counter forms like adapalene, and prescription-only forms like tretinoin and tazarotene.
The key ingredient in our Enzyme-Active Retinol Serum is 0.1% retinaldehyde, which is the most powerful cosmetic retinoid. Unlike retinol, which has to go through two conversion steps before it can impact the skin, retinaldehyde only undergoes one conversion that leaves it about 20 times more potent. This makes it phenomenal if you want to simultaneously fade breakouts while also treating signs of aging.
Salicylic acid/BHA
Also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA, this is an oil-soluble chemical exfoliant with soothing effects. It's considered a first line of defense against breakouts and closed comedones because it can penetrate oil-clogged pores.
It's normally used at a 0.5% to 2% concentration in all sorts of products from cleansers to creams. It's sometimes combined with other ingredients such as AHA or azelaic acid, since they all work well at similar pH levels, and provide slightly different effects. It’s fairly mild but it pairs well with a lot of other excellent actives. We find that the most optimal way to use it is in cleansers, which allows you to use other treatments in leave-on products.
Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid can be found in both acne and rosacea treatments, thanks to its ability to minimize the redness associated with both conditions. It's a soothing ingredient with antimicrobial properties and a very mild pore-unclogging effect.
It’s a gentle treatment option that’s worth trying if other treatments haven’t worked for you. That said, it does have the potential to cause some side effects such as itchiness or irritation.
Benzoyl peroxide
This antibacterial ingredient has mild exfoliating and soothing effects. It’s also very well-researched as a single treatment or in combination with prescription treatments. It doesn’t cause bacterial resistance, which is why it’s often recommended in conjunction with antibiotics.
It’s likelier to dry out the skin compared to salicylic acid, which is why many people with acne-prone skin find that it’s too harsh and irritating for them. To add it to your routine successfully, it’s important to have a very healthy skin barrier.
Sulfur
This stinky acne treatment isn’t as popular as it once was, perhaps because of the smell. It’s antimicrobial and keratolytic, which is why it's quite effective. However, it can also be quite harsh and drying. Paired with the unpleasant usage experience, it’s not surprising that it’s not in common use today.
Glycolic acid/AHA
A type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that removes dead skin to facilitate renewal. It stimulates the natural shedding of the outermost layer of rough, dead skin, so it’s excellent for supporting the action of other ingredients for acne-prone skin.
It also has hydrating, brightening, and anti-aging effects, so it’s an excellent option if you have multiple skin concerns to address at once. That’s why it’s the key ingredient in our gentle, soothing Double AHA Cleanser.