What is over-the-counter retinol?Updated a year ago
Retinoids (sometimes incorrectly referred to as retinol) are a class of skincare ingredients related to vitamin A.
These ingredients are remarkable, giving a smoothing and anti-aging boost by speeding up the skin’s own renewal mechanisms.
The most potent and intense of the bunch is retinoic acid, which is available by prescription only.
However, there are a few options that don’t require a prescription.
Before we start discussing them, we want to clarify something: The actual term “over-the-counter” or “OTC” refers to molecules classified as drugs that don’t require a prescription.
In the US right now, the only OTC retinoid is adapalene, usually sold under the brand name Differin.
However, there are plenty of retinoids that are considered cosmetics. That means they’re available without the need for a prescription, but they’re not considered “OTC” because they’re not regulated as drugs.
Some of the retinoids you can buy without a prescription have exquisite skin smoothing and renewing effects, while others are largely useless. Here’s a quick summary:
- Retinol: Retinol is the most common cosmetic retinoid. It’s fairly mild because in order to impact the skin, it has to first convert into a molecule called retinaldehyde (retinal for short) and then into a molecule called retinoic acid (i.e. the prescription retinoid). During this process, it loses a lot of steam so seeing results takes a long time.
- Retinal: Retinal with an “A” or retinaldehyde is the ideal retinoid for most cosmetic concerns. Don’t let the name scare you - it’s a naturally occuring ingredient. Once applied to the skin, it converts directly to retinoic acid. It's estimated to be 20 times more effective than retinol but equally gentle and unlikely to irritate the skin.
- Adapalene: This retinoid is a topical OTC medication that’s FDA-approved for treating acne. It’s very targeted, but it wouldn’t be our go-to for other concerns like texture or fine lines. It’s also available at a prescription strength.
- Derivatives: By far the least effective class of retinoids. Derivatives like retinyl palmitate have to undergo three conversions to become retinoic acid. By the time that happens, there’s almost nothing left that can impact your skin.
Read our comprehensive guide to the different types of retinol to learn even more about how they work as well as how they compare to prescription retinoids.