Who is AHA best for?Updated a year ago
All skin types can benefit from AHA, but it’s particularly great if your skin needs that exfoliative boost. Those with dry or dehydration-prone skin may benefit the most since AHA also promotes better skin hydration.
Those with oily skin can also benefit from its thorough exfoliating effect. Because AHA is water-soluble rather than oil-soluble, its cousin beta hydroxy acid (BHA or salicylic acid) is often recommended instead. But the two ingredients work beautifully together. You can rely on AHA for surface exfoliation, while BHA works more deeply within the pores.
Finally, there’s sensitive skin. Some people with sensitive skin truly cannot tolerate any exfoliation, but more often than not, the issues come from using an AHA that’s way too aggressive. Concentration really matters, and more isn’t better.
Studies show that at very high concentrations, the benefits of using AHA diminish while risks grow. On the other hand, using low-percentage AHA on a regular basis provides optimal benefits.
Besides concentration, it’s also important to take pH into account. A pH below 3.5 can be quite harsh and only makes sense in a professional setting. AHA exfoliants with a pH between 3.5 and 4 are at the sweet spot where they exfoliate well but without causing irritation.
AHA and Dark Skin
There’s a mistaken idea floating around that those with deeper skin tones can’t use AHA. This is not true.
Those with deeper skin tones are more likely to experience hyperpigmentation as a response to trauma and inflammation, so issues have cropped up with peeling solutions that contain a high percentage of acids. However, gently-formulated products with 10% AHA or less are perfectly fine as long as you listen to your skin, don’t overdo it, and use sun protection.
But Don’t Use AHA If…
You don’t use sun protection. Some people hate the texture of sunscreen, others are just forgetful. We’re not here to sunscreen shame you, but if this essential skin protective measure isn’t part of your routine yet, then AHA can wait.